Normandy, Mont Saint Michel, and *sigh* Paris.
Our first trip to France marked a significant moment in our lives… our youngest son packed his bags and headed off to college. Three boys launched into the world! That deserved a celebration. We planned a trip to France: Paris for me, and the Normandy coast for Jeff.
There’s something wrong with the label empty nester. Sure, the chicks have launched, as they should, and the nest might be quieter than it’s been in at least 18 years…but life isn’t empty. This celebration trip was also a chance to remind ourselves how to travel as a couple instead of as a family.
We traveled during the first two weeks of September, when the weather was sunny and warm and the crowds of families were back on the school calendar (except for us!) Our route and itinerary is below.
DAY 1: PARIS TO COAST
We rented a tiny Fiat and headed west out of Paris. Instead of following the blue dot on my phone, we opted for a paper map, and immediately got lost in the rolling countryside. Don’t let people tell you the French are not helpful! Because the 4 older gentlemen who were daydrinking in a village pub where we asked directions were funny and sweet and patient with my terrible francais. We made it to Arromanches les Bains, and found our lovely but somewhat spooky AirBnB, La Villa Graziella.
DAYS 2-3: WWII HISTORY ON THE NORMANDY BEACHES
Utah Beach, Omaha Beach, Mulberry Harbor…every American should stand in the sand here to better understand what “storm the beaches” really meant. There’s a full description of our experience coming, but as an outline, we started with a half-day tour with Normandy Sightseeing Tours out of Bayeaux, The tour included Pointe D’Hoc, Omaha Beach, and the American Cemetary. On our own, we visited the Airborne Museum in Sainte-Mere-Eglise and the Arromanches Memorial. Normandy is so beautiful, but for me it was a somber experience. As a mom of three young men, I could hardly stand to watch the footage of the soldiers – those innocent faces were too much like my own boys and their friends.
DAYS 4-5: MONT SAINT MICHEL
A few hours down the coast, this 8th century monastery rises from an island, isolated by occasional tides but accessible by a walking bridge. It’s impressive as a day trip, even with the crowds and souvenir shops. But the magic happens at 4pm, when the old stones glow in the late afternoon sunlight. Our room at Les Terraces Poulard looked down on the stone walkway, and we toasted the tourists hiking back to their buses! Full story coming soon.
DAYS 6-10: and finally…PARIS!
We rented an apartment in a building originally owned by D’Artagnon…yes, that D’Artagnon, and still in the family. That’s the story from the property manager, and I’m choosing to believe her.
We spent most mornings walking to museums and must-sees, and most afternoons people watching at parks and cafes. It was all lovely, but our favorite day was the electric bike tour through the Champagne Valley.