Our Tour de Mt. Blanc involved 16 friends, 63 miles, 8 days and 6 nights, 3 countries. Some of us arrived fresh from the States, with more travels planned after our hike. Some of us arrived after exploring other areas. Before we met our group, Jeff and I spent a few days before the checking out Verbier. Eventually we all met in Les Houches, France, in late August, just as the French families were wrapping up their summer and sending kids back to school.
Once gathered, we spent the next week circum-ambulating (it’s not often I get to use that word!) Mt. Blanc. We walked 6 to 8 hours every day, through the most incredible mountain passes and valleys. Like most hikers, we traveled counter-clockwise around that massive peak of rock and ice. We stayed mostly unplugged yet felt very connected, and continued the trail conversations each evening over long, easy dinners with plenty of wine.
Because of the size of our group, we used Macs Adventures to simplify the planning. They arranged lodging, provided digital maps, and moved our luggage each day so we carried only day packs (our packing list is available here.) We hiked village to village, not hut to hut, and stayed in a wide variety of small hotels and a few hostels. We did bump up to the “comfort tour” option — this was a 50th birthday celebration, right? The comfort level meant that each evening we had private rooms instead of a barracks-style sleeping arrangement.
Highlights of our Tour de Mt. Blanc experience…
Day One: Les Houches to Contamines
Our first night as a group was spent at the comfortable Hotel des Bois in Les Houches. In the morning we rode the telepherique up the first hill, which shortened the day’s hike to 11 miles or so. The trail wandered past village churches and shady woods–a perfect starter day to get our feet under us and learn to use the digital map. Ended in Les Contamines at the Hotel Chemanez. This spot is lovely in the summer but would be totally dreamy for a ski trip lodging.
Day Two: Les Contamines to Refuge de Mottets
Today was a whole other level of hiking. We chose the grueling route over Col de Fours to the rustic Refuge de Mottets, and the spectacular views were worth every ounce of sweat! This day shows the variety of hiking on the Tour de Mt. Blanc. Lots of scree fields and steep climbs, plus icy glacial streams to soak our achy feet. Lessons learned: stay on the uphill side when passing a mule on the trail, use both poles when crossing a creek, and bring enough lunch to share. 12 miles total.
Day Three: Refuge de Mottets to Courmayeur
The old stone buildings of the Refuge de Mottets set the scene for todays hike: rugged trails under misty, cold skies. Clouds drifted over glacial fields but didn’t block the views. We crossed into Italy feeling depleted and chilled to the bone. Fortunately, the Rifugio Elizabetta appeared on the next ridgeline like an oasis in the desert. Hot minestrone soup and cappuccinos fueled us up for the rest of the hike to Courmayeur.
Day Four: Courmayeur to Champex
Of all the lodging along our hike, the Hotel Bouton d’Or shone the brightest. Family owned and managed, with endearing details like hand-craved doors and cozy reading nooks. But the breakfast. The breakfast!!! Pastries and savories…good thing we had a serious climb to cover on the way to Champex to burn it all off. This section is rated medium difficulty. The trail was steep and icy, zig-zagging up an exposed mountainside. Every day I’d dutifully stuffed rain pants, wind shell and an extra warm layer in my backpack, and this was the day I needed all three. Once over the top, the world turned green, warm, and inviting once again. After an easy descent into La Fouly, we caught a bus to Champex.
Day Five: Champex to Trient
The Hotel du Glacier’s woodsy dining area and old world charm felt just right for a big group dinner and post-dinner games. After yesterday’s challenges we settled on the shorter route to Trient, which translates to fewer scree fields and more pastures full of cows. The trail had a few decent climbing sections between the meadows. We were serenaded by the chiming chords of cow bells all day. The bigger the cow, the bigger the bell–it’s a bovine status thing. Our lodging in Trient was at the Hotel Grand Ourse. This was the plain Jane of our TOur de Mt. Blanc trip–just a bed, dormitory style bath, and a pretty institutional menu. Most memorable? the fairytale pink church outside our window.
Day Six: Trient to Chamonix
Three of us woke up not feeling well (including me), and decided to hitch a ride back to Chamonix instead of hike. This last day would be the longest hike yet, especially with a few wrong turns and backtracking. By evening we regrouped for raclette and bordeaux, lots of laughs and stories. I’m starting to plan my next hike adventure and hope this band of friends is game to go again–can’t think of a better way to celebrate a milestone.