Cork, the Atlantic Way, and Dublin.
Ireland is a small country (less than a third the size of my home state of Oregon) but a 10 day tour just scratches the surface. Part of that feeling came from a desire to just slow down and get to know each place; part of it came from the fact that there is just a lot to experience.
A visit to Ireland jumped to the top of our travel wish-list when my son Will spent a semester in Cork. All of sudden we had an excuse to start planning! We flew Oregon-Dublin in late May, as his semester ended.
Mid-May is a grand time to tour Ireland. The summer crowds aren’t yet on the move, but the weather is (mostly) on the warmer drier side. Will was an excellent guide, touring us through the country he’d fallen in love with over the past 5 months.
Our Ireland itinerary is below — each day’s destination and highlights.
Day 1: Cork
We caught a lovely double-decker bus at the Dublin Airport, which offered a quick view of the city on the way to the Heuston Train Station. There we hopped on an early train from the Dublin to Cork. We spent most of our time in Cork exploring the University and Will’s favorite pubs, like the Francisan Well and Oliver Plunkett.
Day 2: Dingle
Time to master the art of driving a stick shift on the left side of the road! The road from Cork to Dingle passes through quintessential Ireland hills and cliffs. We headed to the lovely village of Dingle on the coast, near the start of the Atlantic Way drive along the west side of the island. The Dingle Bay Hotel, near the harbor, offers cozy rooms and live music in the pub.
We walked up the hills on the back side of town and found Foxy Johns, half hardware store and half pub (if you go, be sure to venture into the back room, which feels like stepping back in time.)
Day 3: Cliffs of Mohar and Doolin
On the road from Dingle to the Cliffs of Mohar we stopped at the Famine Cottage, a roadside bit of history. These preserved hovels stand in stark contrast to the happy, comfortable life we’d been seeing all around us. How did anyone survive that famine at all??
The Atlantic Way is an adventure in driving. Narrow twisting roads lined with sheer rock faces curve around inlets, with stone ruins and sheep dotting the hillsides. We stopped to hike the Cliffs of Mohar, a rugged coastline carved out by wind and waves. One ledge felt so extreme I actually crawled to peek over the edge! (There’s not much in the way of guard rails. You’re in charge of your own safety at the Cliffs of Mohar.)
That night we stayed in the tiny village of Doolin, at the Roadside B&B. We just stumbled upon the town, and I wish we could have stayed a couple of days. Our hostess recommended McGranson’s Pub, where “the piper” was playing. A big bowl of beef stew, some mashed peas and a pint, and serenaded by the piper and his mates — it was the best way to wrap up a beautiful day.
Day 4 and 5: Ballynahinch Castle
On the drive out of Doolin we stopped at the Doolin Woolen Shop for classic irish sweaters (only to learn later that the wool likely came from New Zealand) and then on to our splurge destination: Ballynahinch Castle. This lovely destination deserves a full story – coming soon. For now, believe me that it is magical.
Day 6 and 7: Clifton
We base camped the next two days at a small B&B in Clifton, not far from Ballynahinch in distance (but I’ll admit I missed the big fireplaces and reading nooks and paths along the river…) Jeff came down with a cruddy chest cold, so we hunkered down a bit instead of pushing on farther north as I’d hoped. Still, we drove the dramatic Sky View section of the Atlantic Way, and passed through rolling peat bogs on our way to the Killery Sheep Farm (a highlight of the trip – right up there with Foxy Johns!)
Day 8 – 9 – 10: Dublin
We left the Atlantic Way feeling restored and rested, ready to take in the urban scene of Dublin. We walked for miles in that city, from our rented apartment in the business district across the River Liffey to the old parts of town. Trinity College with the Book of Kells and the old library showed us the power of written words; the Little Dublin Museum and the Kilmainham Goal showed us the determination of the Irish people through history. The Temple Bar showed us community (even if it’s more tourists than locals now.) And the Guinness Storehouse showed us how to properly pour a pint!